Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Discovering the wonders of Lisbon

The Tuesday flea market captured Dan's fancy in the guidebooks and we made that a first stop in our day after a coffee in our delightful 4th floor apartment. Our big decision- walk or metro? Lindsey googled the distance and the 1.5 mile walk became a no-brainer. The internet has changed our world  so much. Has it robbed us of adventure and discovery? We can find out everything on google! Off we went and so glad we took the walk. We wound through a couple of quiet neighborhoods with marvelous building facades and wrought iron balconies to the Alfama area- home of fado, the traditional Portuguese music. The flea market spread in front of us with block after block of brightly colored tents surrounded by tables and blankets filled with anything and everything you can imagine. old keys, glasses, dolls, suitcases, fishing rods, weight belts, socks, dishes, pottery- let your imagination take flight here.




This place is called "the market of thieves" for good cause. Lisbon is full of pickpockets (more on that later) and Lindsey saw a guy bringing a haul of an ipod and a couple of other things, pocket some money and then head off on his bike.  She also saw a guy with a big shoulder bag checking out every parked car along the road. There are signs watch our for pickpockets everywhere but it seems clear it's a thriving occupation in Portugal. We made our purchases- Lindsey and Pete, a beautiful ceramics serving platter and some bowls, Danny a set of shot glasses to drink the special cherry liquer called Ginja, and me- earrings and headed back to the Chiado on the metro.

After unloading our treasures we made our way to the barrio alto to our east. Our host Sylvia assured us we could get the "authentic" cuisine of Lisbon there. We found a little place on a side alley and had a magnificent meal of grilled squid, sardines, cod and olives with a dry white wine.  Pete had an enormous soup bowl full of shrimp, octopus and beans in a delicious sauce and we also shared bacalhau con natas, cod with potatoes and cream. OMG.  We needed to walk that lunch off a little and sober up!




Next up- the #28 tram around Lisbon. More pickpocket drama! Lindsey witnessed two young girls pilfering a guys wallet. An older woman screamed at the girls and up the wallet flew. The girls ran off the tram at the next stop. Crisis averted. For the moment.

Dan and I went for a walk in the evening while Pete and Lindsey went running. Up the hill several time. Yep.

We saw so many restaurants that were mostly empty, and the workers were literally out in the streets trying to get customers in. This economy has hit Lisbon hard. We wound up with a bottle of Duas Quintas and a fruit and cheese plate in our place across the street on Rua Garret. Tomorrow, on the Sintra! The weather report looks grim. 90 tomorrow, 96 on Thurs and our AC is not working well in the apt. One day at a time.













1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Wow! That food looks amazing! And I am glad to see that YOU were not pickpocketed ;)